Replace your rotting fascia

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Fascia trim, also known as fascia board or simply fascia, is a long, flat board that runs along the edge of a roof, typically where the roof meets the exterior walls,  It is the front facing peice of trim.

Fascia trim typically rots because of repeated moisture exposure combined with inadequate protection or drainage. Here’s a breakdown of the most common causes:

• Top cause of fascia rot.
   
• When gutters clog, overflow, or pull away from the house, water spills directly onto the fascia.
   
• In winter, ice dams can also push water behind the gutters.
   

• Without proper drip edge flashing, water can get behind the shingles and soak the fascia.
   
• Flashing should direct water into the gutter—not behind it.
   

• Fascia boards that aren't primed, painted, or sealed on all sides absorb moisture quickly.
   
• The end grain (exposed edges) soaks up water fastest.
   

• In places like Wisconsin, water trapped in fascia can freeze, expand, and crack the wood—accelerating decay.
   

• Carpenter ants or birds sometimes nest behind or inside fascia.
   
• Soft, damp wood is more appealing to pests.
   

• If the attic is poorly ventilated, warm air causes condensation under the roof, leading to moisture from the inside.
   

• If fascia boards or aluminum wrap are installed too tight or without weep gaps, they trap water.
   
• Soffits and fascia should allow for air movement and drainage.
   

• Position ladders or scaffolding for stable access.
   
• Disconnect nearby power lines or lighting if needed.
   
• Wear PPE: gloves, eye protection, and dust mask.
   

• Check how far the rot goes—sometimes it’s just the fascia, but other times the soffit, rafter tails, or roof decking may also be compromised.
   
• Probe surrounding wood with a screwdriver to test for softness.
   

• Carefully pull off gutters or gutter brackets.
   
• Pry off the rotted fascia board using a flat bar or pry bar.
   
• Remove nails or screws and clean the surface behind it.
   

• Measure and cut new fascia boards from:
   
  • Primed pine, cedar, or composite lumber.
     
  • Or use PVC or pre-finished aluminum wrap.
     
• Pre-prime and paint all six sides of wood boards before installing to seal them against moisture.
   

• Nail or screw into rafter tails (use galvanized or stainless fasteners).
   
• Joints should be tight, with scarf joints at angles if needed.
   
• For longer runs, stagger the joints to avoid weak points.
   

• Install or check drip edge flashing under the shingles and over the fascia to redirect water.
   
• Wrap wood fascia in aluminum coil stock to prevent future rot (called capping).
   

• Reattach gutters with a slight slope toward downspouts.
   
• Make sure brackets are secure but not crushing the fascia board.
   

• Caulk joints and paint if not pre-finished.
   
• Clean up the work area and check roof drainage.